SHABIHA NUR KHATOON, OP
A dazzling piece of art deco jewellery is the perfectly shaped geometrical earring that gels well with all outfits. It was a style statement that was popular in the 1920s and 1930s, an eclectic style that influenced many things. The art deco was all about making everything stylish and design orientated, usually patterns, shapes and geometric styles that used to occur quite frequently.
And of all the different styles over the years, art deco has seemed to be the most popular and the most influential.
“For us the art deco trend was about geometry and symmetry and to break the monotony, we did a blend of art deco and floral – a fusion and a completely new approach to the art form with rose gold and diamonds being our version of it rather than the classic black and gold deco combo. However, we retained the essence of the art form in our designs, says Sreenivas Reddy, principal jewellery designer at BlueStone.com, while talking about the new materials and styles in art deco jewellery.
He adds: “Jewellery has turned from being grand and opulent to more contemporary and minimal, yet statement creating pieces abound. Flowing, softer lines and grace are key elements of the Edwardian style, including bows, florals, ribbons, garlands, loops and other curved motifs as opposed to art deco characterised by bold geometry, sharp angles and strong patterns. The delicate and intricate work found in the Edwardian antique jewellery from this era – garlands, bows, frills and flourishes – gave way to more geometric rather than naturalistic jewellery forms.”
CLASSY TIPS
- For a sophisticated look and the 1920s inspired art deco look you can always accessorise your look with a long pearl necklace or multiple necklaces worn as a stack that will give dimension to your style and definitely a touch of elegance.
- If you want to look impressive on your wedding day go for a retro jazzy art deco style. It looks chic, elegant and unique. The bridal art deco jewellery pieces look luxurious and one of a kind.
Past splendour
Art deco styles emerged in the early 1900s during a period of widespread industrialisation. Art imitated machine, and designers emphasised geometric shapes, parallel lines, and symmetrical patterns. The 1925 World’s Fair, held in Paris showcased the stylistic designs of the modern industrial era and made art deco a fashionable trend in jewellery making. The term ‘art deco’ is actually a shortening of the phrase “decorative arts” as it originally appeared in French in the name of the event.
In the early 20th century, the art deco aesthetic represented technological progress, fashion, and luxury. In modern times, this style is more representative of the past but continues to inspire contemporary architects, clothing designers, furniture makers, and jewellery designers.
Art deco is an eclectic blend of styles from Egypt, Greece, Mesoamerica, Africa, and East Asia. Artistic creations evoke images of machinery that represented the technological advancements of the day. Patterns feature sharp angles, rather than smooth art-nouveau curves, and symmetry was an important factor in many designs. Artists used rich, vivid colours that contrasted strongly within a single design. Bold, abstract, and lavish patterns were popular and represented the societal changes during the ‘20s and ‘30s.
The style of the second part of the art deco period reflected the austerity measures of World War II. As the ornate, rich detailing began to be perceived as inappropriately luxurious, the initial art deco style gave way to a modest, minimal reinterpretation of the core look.
During the art deco period, women adorned themselves with bold, colourful pieces of jewellery. Members of the upper classes, who could afford large gemstones and diamond studded accessories, bought what is called “fine jewellery.”
Thanks to old-fashioned creativity and new scientific advancements, designers also created costume jewellery that mimicked the look of higher-end pieces while using less-expensive materials.
Influences on Art Deco jewellery
China
Chinese influences led to the use of exotic materials outside the normal palette for jewellers. Jade, onyx, coral and amber were used where previously only diamonds and other precious stones would do.
Egypt
The discovery in 1922 of the tomb of Tutankhamun by Sir Edward Carter had a major influence on jewellery. The discoveries were photographed and widely reported across the world. Soon hieroglyphs and Egyptian symbols were making their way into decorative pieces. In 1924 Van Cleef and Arpels were incorporating eagles and lions into bracelets of rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, onyx and platinum. These were to become common themes in art deco jewellery.
Africa
Jean Dépres used crystal, silver and gold in geometric patterns from tribal African masks. If it was exotic, it was a source of inspiration. It’s probably a misconception that art deco is purely about geometry. Angles, simple shapes and symmetrical designs are used to apply an exotic aura to a piece. There is no single aesthetic, however. Jewellery in the Age of Elegance doesn’t fit into one simple classification.