It’s often said that life is incomplete if you haven’t seen the Taj Mahal. And more so if you are an Indian. The allure of the Taj attracts millions every year to Agra, making it the country’s biggest international tourist destination. But there’s more to Agra than just the Taj. Part of India’s Golden Triangle (Delhi-Agra-Jaipur), the 500-year-old city is steeped in history, with every architectural marvel telling a story about the country’s rich past.
We had been to Agra twice earlier, but somehow it was always part of a bigger trip and never quite enjoyed our stay in the city owing to the hectic itinerary. So, this time we decided to make Agra a single-point destination. Agra is a small city, and if you plan ahead, two nights are just perfect for touring the place.
Given that Agra is a cantonment area and a well-guarded city owing to the constant security threats because of Taj Mahal, it is advisable to carry all necessary identity proof documents. There are no regular checks at every point, but it’s always better to be on the safe side to avoid unnecessary harassment if such a situation arises.
The ideal time to visit Agra is between October and February, when it also attracts maximum number of foreign tourists. So, the best thing to do is to pre-book your hotel room. There are luxury and budget hotels galore in Agra and you can do an online booking or book through your travel agent. Hotels which offer aview of the Taj are a bit high priced but don’t hesitate to shell out a few extra bucks to make the most of your stay.
Agra is well connected by both rail and road but not air. There’s an airport but Agra being an air force base, commercial flights are limited. The ideal thing to do is reach Delhi and then go to Agra by road or rail. The other route is from Jaipur. There are many trains connecting Agra with Jaipur and Delhi. And if you decide to go by road, once you hit the Yamuna Expressway, it’s a three-hour drive from Delhi.
We decided to go by road. After starting out in the early morning from Delhi via Mathura and Vrindavan, we reached Agra by 11 am. You can halt and have a hearty breakfast at Mathura. The delectable pedas are a must-have. We had chosen a luxury hotel close to the Taj Mahal. Luckily, we were allotted a room on the top floor, which gave a clear view of the Taj Mahal from the window.
The Taj drew us to Agra, but we had other plans too. So, we decided to keep Taj Mahal on our itinerary for the next day. After a quick lunch at our hotel, we decided to rest for a while before starting our city tour. Our first destination was Agra Fort. An architectural marvel, Agra Fort is a city within a city. Situated about2 1/2 kilometres from Taj Mahal, the 16th century Mughal monument was the main residence of the Mughal emperors till the capital was shifted to Delhi in 1638.
The tour of the fort is exhausting so the best thing to do is nothaveany other plans for the day. Also, the fort is a highly guarded monument with the Indian Army in charge of security. The fort has an engaging history,so it would be wise to hire a guide. The fort is also described as a walled city because of the high walls that completely seal the view of the fort from outside.
Originally, the fortress had four walls. However, two were later walled, with public entry allowed through the main gate — Lahore Gate, which faces the city. The other gate — Delhi Gate — faces thewestern side of the city. Much like the Red Fort, Agra Fort too has a Diwan-E-Aam and Diwan-E-Khaas, a Mughal speciality.
If you are interested in history, a tour of Agra Fort is going to be time consuming. The use of different stones indicates that the fort was built by more than one ruler. The construction of the fort was started by Emperor Akbar, and that portionmainly comprises red sandstone. One of the prime attractions is the Jahangir Mahal, built by Akbar as the women’s quarters. Opposite Jahangir Mahal is the palace built by Akbar for his favourite queen,Jodha Bai. If you take a closer look at the walls, you will find Persian inscriptions on the walls, a sign of Akbar’s rich taste in art and culture.
The construction of the fort was later taken over by Shah Jahan. The distinctive taste and architectural style of the two emperors are evident in the monuments. One of the later constructions is the Khaas Mahal, which is entirely built of marble. Another gem in marble is the Moti Masjid. However, one of the biggest attractions is the Musamman Burj, which was constructed by Shah Jahan. The octagonal tower has an open pavilion. And this is the same room where Shah Jahan was kept in exile by his son Aurangzeb, and where he died gazing at the Taj Mahal.
As you walk down this iconic monument, you will come to the Diwaan-E-Aam which used to house the famous Peacock Throne. A gilded platform encrusted in precious stones, the throne was later shifted to Red Fort when Shah Jahan shifted the capital to Delhi.Later it was stolen by Persian ruler Nader Shah in 1739.
The next morning was reserved for Taj Mahal. If you are not visiting Agra on a fullmoon night, the ideal thing to do is to make an early morning trip to Taj Mahal and reserve the rest of the day for other places. Public vehicles aren’t allowed up to the gates of the Taj Mahal. You have to get down around 500 metres from the building from where battery-operated golf carts will take you to the monument.
One of the Seven Wonders of the World, the mausoleum made of white marble took 17 years to construct. You find both Persian and Mughal influences in the architecture. The tomb is the primary attraction of the monument, but the overall tour of the Taj is an experience in itself. The main entrance gives a straight view of the Taj Mahal with its reflection in a pool. The entrance gate itself is a photographer’s paradise. As you move down the walkways beside the reflecting pool, you are led to the Taj Mahal. The tomb is raised on a square platform, with four minarets placed on octagonal bases, which are extended beyond the squares of the corners. Climb the stairs and you are in front of the famous monument to love.
Shah Jahan commissioned the mausoleum in 1631, a few days after the death of his wife Mumtaz Mahal. The mausoleum was completed in 1643, while the surrounding building and gardens were completed in 1648. Till then, the empress’ tomb was kept in an adjoining building. Take a closer look at the walls and the pillars and you will find Quranic inscriptions and Arabic scripts along with intricate and delicate calligraphy done following a rhythmic pattern. However, the mausoleum has been built keeping in mind the Islamic tradition, which forbids lavish decoration of graves. Hence the bodies of Mumtaz and Shah Jahan were placed in plain crypts beneath the inner chamber.
We were done with the Taj Mahal trip by 10 am. After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we headed for another architectural gem, Fatehpur Sikri. An hour’s drive from Agra, Fatehpur Sikri was built by Akbar in 1571 as the capital of the Mughal Empire.
The huge complex comprises monuments, temples, stables, Diwan-E-Aam, Diwan-E-Khaas, a large harem, courtyards, residences of his three main wives and of the Navratnas including Birbal, Tansen and Mulla Do-Piyaza. The complete tour of Fatehpur Sikri takes roughly three hours but time just seems to fly by as you explore the magnificent monuments and courtyards.
Another big attraction is the Jama Masjid, which you reach through the BulandDarwaza. At 180 feet high, the Darwazais the biggest and largest doorway in the world and was added five years after the completion of the mosque to commemorate Akbar’s victory in Gujarat. Within the Masjid lies the white marble encased tomb of Sufi saint Salim Chishti. Every year, it attracts thousands of pilgrims.
A tour of Fatehpur Sikri is no less appealing than that of the Taj Mahal but it will leave you exhausted. However, don’t forget to dig into some traditional Mughlai fare. Agra is a food lover’s paradise with some really good standalone restaurants. Also, don’t miss out on the pethas.
RITUJAAY GHOSH, OP
