Shabiha Nur Khatoon
INTRO
Fashion is an expression of creativity that celebrates the myriad shades of human beauty. It is also one of the most poignant means of making a strong social statement, as designers who zeroed in on the victims of social crimes like acid attacks – and made them not only head-turning models but also fierce advocates of gender equality – have so admirably demonstrated. Such bold designers deserve unreserved praise for highlighting the beauty industry’s social commitment.
TEXT
Fashion may keep changing like the seasons but the changes themselves are part of a coherent social pattern and way of life. Fashion is a reflection of broader social, economic, political and cultural changes. It expresses modernity by establishing a connection with the present, opines Tanu Khera, a Delhi-based fashion designer.
From supporting new ideas to ushering in changes, fashion has become the most convenient tool to highlight vital social issues and emphasise the need for change. Fashion is not about a model showcasing designer creations; in fact these days it is more about adopting a “cause” which happens to be the best possible way of making a forceful social statement. Impactful fashion statements are products of human creativity which exude originality of thought and boldness of expression.
Fashion designers use their masterly skills to not just design garments but also highlight burning social issues on the ramp – issues that are of immediate concern to the country.
Tanu says designers are churning out out-of-the-box concepts. “It is really important to raise awareness in society and work for social causes. Being from the fashion world, I appreciate the efforts of designers who have a broad social message to convey and want to follow their lead in the near future,” she says.
Among designers who have struck a different path with their unconventional and socially aware creations, Archana Kochhar is foremost. She has succeeded in breaking stereotypes in fashion.
Reshma Qureshi, an acid attack survivour, flaunted a recent creation of Archana Kochhar’s whose idea of beauty is a ray of hope for many people who are pushed to the margins of society without any fault of theirs.
Speaking to Sunday POST, Archana observes: “The New York Fashion Week is always a surreal experience. This is the second year I showcased my collection in the US and the response is great. The organisation, audience, media and the models – the entire set-up is awesome. I have had the opportunity of not only showcasing my collection but also supporting a cause close to my heart on this platform. I am truly blessed.”
“I have always believed that beauty is all inclusive. We cannot stereotype beautiful as ‘tall’, ‘thin’ and, as in India, ‘fair’. I have tried to spread awareness about this through a number of shows, be it the NYFW last year or the Bangalore Fashion Week this year,” she says.
“NYFW happened to be promoting the concept of bringing beauty back. It was a clear alignment of thoughts. I requested them if Reshma, whom I prefer calling a survivor rather than a victim, could walk for me, and they readily agreed. I am thankful for all the appreciation my show has received. I will continue to support Reshma and other acid attack survivors in the near future. After all, the journey has just started,” the designer adds.
Making Reshma Qureshi walk the prestigious ramp was nothing short of a bold step, which the designer took after battling apprehensions. “No doubt it was a challenge as I was worried how everyone would take it,” says Archana. “What would happen to the cause in case my initiative was not accepted? Though this was not the first time I made an acid attack survivor walk the ramp, the moment was indeed huge in every sense. At NYFW I was participating in a mega fashion show where fashion pundits, familiar with the latest international trends, scrutinised my work. I was worried whether I would be able to pull it off. I am happy I was well received.”
Explaining the special features of the outfit, Archana says: “I made an outfit in which the hands and legs were properly covered. The attire was designed to make the model feel comfortable. The beautiful gown had digital prints and the model was made to look slim and tall.”
About using digital prints to convey the beauty of the monument of love, Archana says: “Let us not forget that the Taj Mahal was built by Shah Jahan in the memory of his beloved Mumtaz Mahal. Here, too, I was imploring everyone to love and learn to live. Beauty is all about inclusiveness.”
Bhubaneswar-based fashion designer Madhusmita Panda is effusive in praise of Archana’s innovative perception.
Madhusmita who has showcased her creations at the Bangalore Fashion Week is of the view that fashion shows like the one in which Archana exhibited her creations are held to raise social awareness and condemn in the starkest of terms –yet in an aesthetic manner – horrific acts of violence against women.
“Such attacks not only lead to physical trauma but also have devastating psychological effects. I feel giving the survivours a chance to walk the ramp acts as an inspiration and delivers a clear message that they are also important parts of society and have every right to move on in life despite the tragedies that have befallen them in the past. Such shows go a long way in creating courage, strength and determination among the survivours of violence and help them join the social mainstream,” says Madhusmita.
In a telephonic interaction with Sunday POST, Reshma shares her debut runway experience. “The New York Fashion Week was an amazing experience for me. The opportunity to walk the ramp at the biggest fashion platform in the world is a once in a lifetime opportunity. The acceptance and the support of the audience from India and abroad was truly memorable.”
Reshma who opened the show with Archana’s creations at the NYFW calls it a “life-changing experience”.
“Archana Kochhar is one designer who wanted to promote the concept of beauty as all inclusive. Her notion of beauty is far removed from the stereotypes we keep encountering every day. Since there was a clear alignment of thoughts, it was a great pleasure opening the show for Archana at the NYFW,” says Reshma.
The beauty, who lost an eye and whose face was brutally disfigured in an acid attack perpetrated by her brother-in-law in 2014, says that during the assault she had been pinned down by her brother-in-law’s friends when acid was poured on her face. Reshma has become the face of a campaign to abolish the open sale of acid in the country.
Reshma says people have a tendency to pity acid attack survivours – an outlook she desperately wants to change. “I want to tell the world – do not have pity on us. We don’t need sympathy. We can prove we are no less worthy than others,” she adds.
At a time when we were poring over the several news articles about Reshma’s appearance at the runway, we also came across news of Laxmi Saa making her presence felt at the London Fashion Week held recently.
Laxmi who walked the ramp with UK-based acid attack survivor Adelle Bellis was only 15 when she was targeted. She says she had never anticipated that one day she would get involved in creating awareness about violence against women on a global platform.
For Laxmi, LFW was not the first experience of participating in a mega fashion event. However, it was special as it was her first international appearance.
“I and Adele walked for designer Raishma. The experience was lovely. Beauty is not something that needs to be defined by looks. I decided to break the notion and move on and do things I wanted to. I feel glad I got the opportunity to climb on to a platform where I could share my thoughts with many women across the world,” said Laxmi.
“Society where people look to us in a different look but I wanted to tell them we are one of them we have not done anything wrong. These kinds of event motivate women who are sitting at home in the fear what society will think about them.”
Laxmi was 16 years old when she was attacked with acid by a man who was twice her age, because she had turned down his marriage proposal.
In 2014, she received the International Women of Courage Award from US First Lady Michelle Obama. Earlier this year, she became the brand ambassador of clothing brand Viva N Diva.
Tanu says fashion is fashion, whether it involves a model or an acid attack survivor. “Every outfit should be stylish, durable and make the person wearing it feel good,” she says. The designer points to shows that had the larger objective of highlighting socially pressing issues. Like…
Shivan and Narresh: To raise awareness about breast cancer, the designer duo Shivan and Narresh launched a line of mastectomy blouses. These had in-built prosthetic breasts. The designer duo has since tied up with various NGOs so that these blouses could be made available to underprivileged women who have undergone mastectomy.
Anita Dongre: In September 2007, Anita Dongre came up with an organic clothing line to create awareness about environmentalism and ethical fashion. Her show was dominated by greens, yellows and whites, and comprised clothes made from organic fibres.