Berhampur: Prime Minister Narendra Modi had earlier this month declared August 7 as the National Handloom Day in honour of the Swadeshi Movement that was launched on this day back in 1905. The day was celebrated with much pomp back in the state and a state-level function was held in the capital to provide an impetus to the handloom sector and also to promote handlooms as a world-class product.
On the first National Handloom Day, CM Naveen Patnaik launched the ‘Baristha Bunakar Sahayata Yojana’ – a pension scheme for the weaver community in the state. Through the scheme, the government would provide `500 per month to weavers who attained 60 years of age and `700 to weavers who have crossed 80 years of age.
In Berhampur however, there was a discernible chill in the air as the ‘Silk City’ has lost much of its sheen over the years.
It was here in Berhampur that the handloom industry in the state took roots decades back. The city, once home to hundreds of weavers, is now witnessing a steady decline of the craft. “The age-old handloom industry in the city is as old as the local civilization here. Being one of the largest economic activity after agriculture, it provided direct and indirect employment to lakhs of weavers and allied workers.
The hand-weaving exemplified the richness and diversity of Orissa. Thus, the city gained its moniker of Silk City,” Berhampur Weavers’ Cooperative Society president K Bhima Raju said.
According to locals, many migrants from Rajahmundry in Andhra Pradesh came to Berhampur in search of work. Being skilled artisans, they wove silk sarees which they sold for a living. The sarees soon became a rage, and became so popular that they were shipped to places across the country.
In no time, the trend of silk sarees picked up and became a major source of economy for the state. The silk saree helped Orissa gain a place on the handloom world map, with the hand-woven silk sarees being appreciated all over.
Keeping in mind the demand, the government set up three cooperative societies in the town. The market value of the sarees was fixed via the cooperative societies. More than 400 families were involved in the craft till 15 years ago.
However, the craft soon faded due to various reasons. Lack of various policy initiatives, marketing and social welfare measures posed a threat to the handloom sector. The policy to promote handloom sector through a number of programmes and schemes also failed to reach the society.
Soon, from the earlier 400 weavers’ families, there are now just 99. More than 300 families have opted out of the craft in the past few years.
According to the weavers, it takes five to seven days for two persons to weave a saree. The saree is then sold in the market for prices ranging from `3,500-`6,000.
However, the weavers only receive `1,800- `2,200. This means the weavers hardly earned `200 a day even after working for 10-12 hours a day. Low wages was one of the main reasons why the weavers opted to pursue other crafts and occupation for their means of living.
Adding to their misery, none of the weavers have houses of their own. They also cannot use rented houses for weaving purposes as they have to dig a 2-ft pit to install the weaving machine. No house owner would allow digging of holes at his place, forcing weavers to look for other occupations. Several demands were made to construct houses for the weavers but to no avail.
Similarly, health cards supplied to weavers have expired since 2014, Bhima Raju said.
“Now, sarees woven by machines are available for low prices. This has affected the market for hand-woven sarees. The market policy of the cooperative societies is too outdated to persist with. One can believe the plights of a weaver’s family only after witnessing it with their own eyes. They do not have a house of their own. They are deprived of the health benefits provided by the government. Many of them are deprived of ration cards available under the NFSA act,” Raju said.
If this continues, Berhampur might soon no longer be able to rightfully claim that it is still a Silk City, Bhima Raju said. PNN
