Nathu La, the famous Himalayan pass in East Sikkim district on the Sino-Indian border, has been a must-visit destination for tourists. This correspondent had the privilege to be at the pass, one of three open border trading posts between China and India, for a day recently.
Nathu means ‘listening ears’ and La means ‘pass’ in Tibetan. Located at an altitude of 14,140 feet, Nathu La Pass, about 56 km from Gangtok, is part of the historic ‘Silk Route’ which played a crucial role in trade ties between India and Tibet upto the 1960s. After a conflict broke out between India and China in 1967 causing massive loss of lives on both sides, the route was closed. A memorial set up at Nathu La honours the supreme sacrifice made by Indian soldiers during the conflict. After remaining closed for 44 years, the route was reopened July 6, 2006 triggering opportunities for limited trade between India and Tibet in China.
Wool, raw silk, yak hair, yak tail, China clay, horses and sheep, among others, are imported duty free from Tibet through this route while 29 items including clothes, tea, coffee, and rice are exported to China.
The fenced Sino-Indian border is just a few meters away and both Indian and Chinese soldiers guard the border. There is no ‘no man’s land’ at the border.
As this place is a protected area, foreign nationals and NRIs are not allowed to visit. Indians seeking to visit Nathu La can take a Protected Area Permit (PAP) for a fee, after submitting proof of citizenship. The permit, which must be applied for a day in advance, can be obtained through an authorised tour operator of the Sikkim government who also provides the vehicle for the visit to Nathu La. Nobody is allowed to take a city taxi or a self-driven vehicle to Nathu La. The entry to the checkpost closes at 12 noon.
It is best to reach Nathu La before noon as the weather can turn bad in the afternoon. It is advisable to set out from Gangtok by 6:30 to 7.30 am. The roads are not in a good condition, so it is better to hire a Jeep or SUV type vehicle like Bolero, Scorpio, or Sumo.
The entire region remains under snow cover all through the year. From this it can be judged how difficult it must be for our soldiers to protect the border. When asked about the equation between the soldiers of the two sides, a senior official of Rajput regiment under condition of anonymity said, “Even though we are just a foot away from each other, we don’t engage in friendly talk. However, we exchange sweets during Independence Day and Republic Day.”
A cafeteria run by the Indian Army serves tea, coffee, momos, samosa and other snacks to the tourists at a reasonable price. The army men are very friendly and share their experiences with the tourists. Free parking facility is offered to the visitors by the Indian Army.
Because of the high altitude at Nathu La, oxygen level in the air is very low. Many of us faced breathing problems. If you already have breathing problems or other health issues, you should consult a doctor before visiting Nathu La. Winter clothes are a must as the temperature is very low at the pass. You can rent winter clothes too in case you are not suitably equipped.
Being a Sino-Indian border area, photography and videography are strictly prohibited. However, tourists can click pictures below the stairway that leads to the border.
A number of army camps can be spotted on the slopes of the hill and one can get good pictures with mountains and lakes as backdrop. The roads are free of litter and one can feel the clouds while walking on the road. ‘Pay & use toilets’ facilities are available along the road that leads to Nathu La. It is advisable to go straight to Nathu La from the nearest city and enjoy other tourist destinations during the return journey.
Thegu ATM
On the way to Nathu La, you will cross Thegu which has the highest altitude ATM in the world. The ATM operates with the help of a generator and runs on a special fuel that does not freeze at high altitude. You can make a transaction just to get the slip as a memento.
Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple
Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple was built in memory of an Indian soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968. Later, it was given a facelift and the new temple is situated near Kupup Gnathang road and the trail leading to Menmecho Lake. There is a fascinating legend associated with the shrine. The local people and army personnel at the border believe that the dead soldier still guards the border between India and China.
Patriotic songs are always played at the temple which gives the visitor a different feel. When asked about the rituals at the shrine, the army personnel there said, “The border is safe because of this shrine. Here, we sing the national anthem five times a day.”
The Indian Army also runs a cafeteria at the temple where one can enjoy snacks and beverages. Free parking facilities are offered at the site.
Mera Bharat Mahan Hill
The hill beside a road leading to Nathu La Pass and Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple often draws the attention of the tourists for the huge inscription of ‘Mera Bharat Mahan’ on its surface. The sight evokes patriotic fervour.
Tsomgo Lake
The glacial lake is located at an altitude of 12,313 feet. The surface of the lake reflects different colours in accordance with the change of seasons. Buddhist monks predict the weather after studying the changing colours of the lake.
While it is not advisable to enter the lake, tourists can enjoy a yak ride near it as the ride is available at very reasonable prices. Also known as Changu Lake, the idyllic scenery at the place is a travellers’ delight.
The ropeway ride near the lake gives you a wonderful panoramic view of the lagoon and the mountains. The cable cars carry passengers from the lake to a nearby hilltop.
When to visit Nathu La
Nathu La is open to the public only from Wednesday to Sunday every week. A good time to visit is between April to November when the temperature hovers around 10 to 15°C. On a clear sunny day, one can see the entire pass and the landscape with towering mountain peaks in the background.
How to reach
By Air: Gangtok’s Pakyong Airport, approximately 86 km from Nathu La Pass, is the nearest airport.
By Rail: New Jalpaiguri in Siliguri, West Bengal is the nearest railway station.
SOYONG, OP
