MONALISA PATSANI
Thirty-eight-year-old Anshu Jamsenpa from Arunachal Pradesh, a mother of two, has achieved the rare feat of becoming the first woman in the world to climb Mount Everest twice in a span of five days. In all, the passionate mountaineer has scaled the Everest four times, twice within 10 days in May, 2011, and again in mid-2013. Given her previous expeditions, she holds the record of being the only woman in the world to have reached the pinnacle of the world twice in one season. In an interview with Sunday POST the mountaineer shares her exciting adventures and experiences. Excerpts:
What motivated you to become a mountaineer?
From early childhood I was very adventurous. I always tried doing things that other children of my age didn’t dare to. Being from the hilly state of Arunachal Pradesh, climbing small hills was a part of my daily life and routine, and gradually I developed a desire to become a professional mountaineer. But due to adverse circumstances I could not fulfill my dream and became engaged in family life. A few years back I started training for mountaineering and participated in various Himalayan expeditions. Nepal peak was the first mountain I climbed in 2010.
You are the first women to have scaled Mount Everest twice in 2011 and 2017. How was the experience?
During the first expedition in 2011 many people discouraged saying I would not succeed. I wanted to show the whole world what I could do and prove naysayers wrong. So when I achieved success in my first attempt I thought of doing something different than other people. After reaching the base camp I decided to climb back up again just to set an example. I was confident that I could climb the mountain in less than a week but was stopped from taking that risk. Finally, it took me 10 days. Honestly, it was an overwhelming moment for me. This time, however, I was more focused. I knew it was my last chance to climb Mount Everest and I wanted to do something exceptional that people would remember. I am happy that I could complete the expedition in five days.
How different was the experience of the second expedition from that of the first?
The situations during the two summits were different. I had mixed emotions. The feelings during my first expedition were different as then I was eager to prove my caliber and gain confidence. During the first expedition even my oxygen mask was not functioning properly. So the taste of success was really sweet. The second expedition occasioned different feelings.
What were your preparations this time?
Even if you have the necessary gadgets, climbing a mountain requires physical and mental strength. In January last year, I injured my leg and doctors advised complete rest which resulted in weight gain. So to regain physical fitness for this summit I started physical training and yoga which helped me become mentally strong.
Finance must have been a major issue. Did it affect you mentally?
Financial issues have been always been pressing for mountaineers and it has affected me too. Due to constraint of funds the back-to-back expeditions in 2014 and 2015 had to be called off. I had to approach people for sponsorship after that.
What special precautions did you take before climbing Mount Everest?
There are lots of challenges. The first major problem is the biting cold which causes frost bite; so one has to wear lots of warm clothes. I was lucky that during the last expedition I wore lots of warm cloths. There were other mountaineers who were badly affected by frost bite. Body movement is also very important which help us to remain physically and mentally active in the harsh climate.
Mountaineering is becoming popular as an adventure sport that many youngsters are taking interest in. Are youths in Arunachal Pradesh and elsewhere in the country really taking a serious interest in mountaineering?
It is really good that youngsters are interested in mountaineering and many new faces are emerging every year. But I am a little disappointed as there are many who are only attracted to the glamorous aspect of the job. Mountaineering is a serious thing and I feel one should be honest and sincere with it.
You are a mother, wife and mountaineer. How do you manage everything?
Women are very strong and can do anything. It all depends on how you deal with everything. One has to be confident. I didn’t immediately achieve everything, it took me years. When I was not a mountaineer I devoted my time for the wellbeing of my children and husband. I did everything for them. I supported my husband all through and he too supported me.
