Nature and humans – they share a love-hate relationship. The
latter have this innate desire to better Nature and even if they do succeed at times, there are times when Nature lets them know that it can’t be taken for granted.
Mount Everest is one such
wonders of Nature. It has been peaked by more than 4,000
people since 1953, when Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary reached the top. But then Everest has also proclaimed its supremacy by claiming lives. As they say that there are no benefits without losses. The year 2016 has seen quite a few lives claimed by Mount Everest. Orissa’s premier mountaineer Ganesh Chandra Jena, who conquered Everest in 2011, talks about his experiences and the pitfalls associated with climbing the highest
peak in the world with Rajendra Prasad Mohapatra. Excerpts…
This year the death toll on Everest has reached 12. What could be the reasons for the loss of lives?
There are various reasons like oxygen shortage, exhaustion, climatic conditions like white out, heavy fogs which could be the reasons behind the heavy death toll. From my experience, I feel most of the climbers must have suffered white outs, (blindness that happens because of the reflection of the sun’s rays on the ice) while returning from the summit. Then they must have lost their way and exhausted all their oxygen supply leading to their untimely demise.
Did you know any of the mountaineers who passed away this year?
Yes I knew Gautam Ghosh and Subhash Pal. I have done mountaineering and attended camps with them. They were top mountaineers of India and were my close pals.
How did you feel, when you heard about the demise of your fellow mountaineers?
When I listened about the death of Rajiv Bhattacharya and some of my other friends, it was like the sky crashing down on me. I have climbed only one peak above 8,000 metres. Mountaineers like Rajiv have climbed five peaks of over 8,000 metres each. It is really tragic that they were on the downward climb after reaching the peak and had reached base camp four. They were great mountaineers and have inspired many more to take up the sport. (Rajiv incidentally had conquered 14 of the top peaks in the world before his demise).
Locals are alleging that mountaineers are not obeying the instructions of the Shrepas and as a result the death toll is rising.
No, I don’t think that’s the case. All the mountaineers depend on the shrepas and follow their instructions as they are the local people and more experienced. Both shrepas and mountaineers complement each other. When they become separated that is when the problem arises.
It has been long time now since Tenzing and Hilary conquered Everest. Since then the equipment and methods have improved. Yet the number of deaths is increasing. Is it because mountaineers are throwing caution to the winds?
Definitely the awareness about the pitfalls has increased. But after 6,000 metres, nothing else matters. You are then under Nature’s control. So then to challenge Nature is a big mistake. After 6,000m we should seek Nature’s help, not challenge it.
Don’t you think the risks are increasing day by day in climbing the Everest? Should attempts to scale Everest be stopped for a while?
No, Everest has been conquered earlier and will beckon the adventurous spirit in future also. But accidents will always happen. It happens everywhere, in our daily life, everyday virtually.
Do you think risks in climbing the Everest escalated after the Nepal earthquake?
No, I don’t think so. All the mountains are dangerous after 6,000 metres, Everest more so, as its height is close to 9,000m.
Any experiences that you would want to share when you have been close to danger personally, while conquering the Everest.
When I reached the third base camp, I was completely exhausted. I didn’t have the strength to move an inch. I had more or less decided to quit and come back. But my shrepa advised me not to miss the chance as the Everest peak was only one hour away. I trudged ahead with a silent prayer to Lord Jagannath. He gave me the strength to reach the summit. That experience of the last one hour, in fact the entire climb will forever be etched in my memory.
Any tips you would want to give to the aspiring mountaineers?
First, they should acclimatise themselves to the conditions and built on their strength through proper dieting. A climber should at least take four litres of water every day during climbing. Most importantly, they should never challenge Nature, but seek its help.
